I’ve often stopped to wonder, why do many Africans outside the continent ditch their traditional wear for the suit-and-tie trappings of the west? Although some love to express themselves when it comes to African fashions, the greater number dress just like everyone else – especially the youngsters. But why?
The gradual loss of the traditional African fashion identity can be traced to the European dominance in its trade relations with Africa as far back as the 16th century. From the early contact with African kings, the natives were tempted to try new thing such as European clothes made of cotton and alien materials. The growth of trade soon made European wares available throughout the continent, particularly clothes and accessories.
Colonialism became the final phase in the social indoctrination of Africans. From the African elites who returned from abroad to champion the independence struggle to the new white-collar classes, the apparel of their colonial masters was en vogue.
The post-colonial era saw new developments towards changing the western dress code mentality by nationalists who emerged as leaders of the new African states. Leaders like Kwame Nkrumah, Kenneth Kaunda and Nnamdi Azikiwe showed the light to the new generation that was fast losing their traditional sense of dressing.
Some African governments began encouraging government workers to wear native attire through dedicating special office days. Countries like Nigeria went as far as awarding prizes to the most traditionally dress workers! But despite such incentives, the love for traditional attire was still being lost at a high rate.
It’s all come to what we see today, with African teenagers who dress like gangsta rappers – surely influenced by American media and culture. Their parents are found wanting in informing them about their culture – but even they themselves have abandoned their traditional ways when it comes to fashion and style.
Being a large continent of many nations, there is a great diversity in African fashion. Each country brings its own different inter-ethnic styles to the fashion world, so there is no excise for Africans to imitate when non-African designers copy our native styles for their latest ‘ethnic’ looks.
We have our own iconic fashions we can look to for inspiration. Take the kente cloth from Ghana, a beautiful Asante ceremonial cloth hand-woven on a loom. The kente has gradually become a household name in African traditional fashion, and has come to symbolise many qualities associated with fashion and history. So also has the Nigerian agbada: our leaders have represented Africa greatly in this respect as none has ever left his three-piece agbada suit behind.
Other popular African attires that embody the pride of their people include the chitenje in Zambia, the Masaai shuka, kpelle attire in Liberia and dumuriya in southern Sudan.
Africans in the west should take a moment to contemplate the richness of our fashion traditions and pass on the love for traditional attire to our young ones. And for anyone who remains unconvinced, just think of this: as Robert Mugabe and his fellow despots wage their phantom battles against the west, they are never without their western suits.
Ukachukwu Okorie is originally from Nigeria and writes weekly for Metro Éireann. Visit his website at www.olumouka.com
