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The politics of the colour ‘red’

Last update - Monday, July 15, 2013, 16:24 By Tara Fannon

You may have learned recently that Turkish Airlines has implemented a ban on wearing red lipstick and nail polish among its cabin crew because it was said to undermine the ‘visual integrity’ of the airline. Whether or not that’s actually the case, it’s pretty clear that the colour red isn’t associated with purity in this situation.

You may have learned recently that Turkish Airlines has implemented a ban on wearing red lipstick and nail polish among its cabin crew because it was said to undermine the ‘visual integrity’ of the airline. Whether or not that’s actually the case, it’s pretty clear that the colour red isn’t associated with purity in this situation.

I disagree with the ban for my own feminist reasons, but always think it wise to consider the cultural context in which such decisions are made (and in this case, overturned as a result of pressure on the ground). In my search for other articles about the story, I found a second and contrasting example of the use of the colour red –coincidentally also related to cabin crew.

Everyone knows Virgin Airlines and the Virgin brand’s iconic use of red. This summer the airline is planning to ‘unveil’ its new cabin crew uniform, designed by British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. The women’s uniform is said to be more feminine, more modern and more flattering, with its cinched-in waistcoat and pleated-back pencil skirt. And of course, the main colour will remain red.

 

A curious pigment

A little more digging led me to an article on the introduction of a custom Virgin ‘red’ lip colour for its female cabin crew. Something tells me that Virgin isn’t going for the pure, wholesome look here. I find this really fascinating. You might ask, what’s the big deal about a colour? But red is an especially curious pigment, as it has a myriad contrasting and contradictory meanings of historical and cultural significance. It can mean ‘stop’ to some, and ‘go’ to others. In some places it’s used to depict blood and fire, in others it stands for purity and good fortune. Red can signal life or death, and love or war. It’s often used in statements of nationalism and revolution, and it often shows up in the spiritual imagery of Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity.

Red is often described as a colour of power and prestige. If you want to be taken seriously, you might be told to wear a red tie or a pair of red heels. If you want to entice someone, you might think to apply red lipstick or woo them with red roses. If you want to feel sexy in your own skin, you might consider getting yourself a red negligee, or a red sports car. Indeed, in the western cultural context, red says sex above all.

How does this relate to flight attendants? A little historical background is warranted. Back in the 1920s, the job then known as air hostess or stewardess became the image of femininity, and one that was strictly enforced and regimented. Air hostesses were required to be of a certain age, weight and picture of health. They were the quintessential ‘girl next door’, especially since they weren’t allowed to marry or have children.

The book Femininity in Flight touches on the legacy of stereotypes associated with flight attendants. And other writers like AR Schoolchild and Barbara Ehrenreich point out that the historical legacy of the flight attendant is steeped in universally politicised undertones. ‘Legacy’ is the key word here: although we might be more sophisticated in our thinking today, old habits die hard. The expectations of the woman flight attendant have not changed much. She is required to be both deferential and authoritative. She holds down the fort and keeps things ticking along, and she must serve the passengers needs. It’s her duty to nurture them and make them more comfortable, and to remain friendly, engaging, and interested. She must also look well put together. Not only is she the girl next door – she’s what Schoolchild terms the ‘protomother’.

Bringing this back to the Turkish Airlines story, the sentiment among secular Turks is that their country is becoming more conservative and nationalistic. In this light, the airline’s actions were likely symptomatic of wider political and religious changes (they did also recently reverse an order against headscarves). Turkey has a large Islamic population whose beliefs undoubtedly come into play, particularly in such heated times. In this case, sex and service are a little too close for comfort.

Virgin, on the hand, has never hidden the fact that it uses the colour red because it says sex. Instead of your mother serving you a beverage and a blanket, it’s the girl next door. This makes it much easier to maintain the fantasy.

 

Tara Fannon was previously a student in Sociology at UCD and a columnist for Metro Éireann.

 


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