It’s almost as if cooking was invented for the aubergine. In its raw form, this berry fruit – also known as the eggplant or brinjal – belies its sheer versatility when roasted. And in pickles and relishes, the aubergine is a great carrier of flavour.
This preserve is somewhere between an Indian relish or pickle and an Italian caponata. It’s great as a side with curries and stews, or for adding to pasta for an eastern twist. The fruity, spicy element also makes it a perfect accompaniment for sandwiches in need of a lift.
Ingredients:
2 aubergines, medium
1 red onion
10g fresh ginger, chopped
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1⁄2 tsp each mustard powder, mustard seeds and dried chillies
1 tsp each cumin seeds, coriander and turmeric
Olive oil
2 tbsp tomato puree
30g sultanas, soaked
30g pinenuts
120ml red wine vinegar
30ml port
1 tbsp muscovado sugar
Cut the aubergines into small chunks. Place them in an oven-proof dish, then drizzle with a little olive oil and some sea salt. Mix together so the aubergines are coated in the oil.
Roast in the oven at about 170 degrees till browned and soft. Meanwhile, fry the spices in a medium sized pot to release their aroma. Add the onion and a little more oil and fry till soft. For the last minute of frying, add the chopped garlic chilli. If too dry, add some more oil at this point.
Drain the soaked sultanas and mix with the onions and spices. Pour the red wine vinegar and port into the pot with a little muscovado sugar and let it reduce and thicken on a low heat. Add the aubergines and toasted pinenuts and cook for a further 10 minutes. The relish should be sweet, sour and spicy.
Transfer to sterilised jars. Once opened, keep in the fridge and use within a couple of weeks.
Ken Doherty is a chef and journalist
