Our anxieties over the carbon footprint of our food will not be eased until the likes of citrus fruits, mangos and papayas grow this far north of the equator. Judging by July’s deluge, that seems a long way off. So we have no reason not to make use of the abundance of mangos and papayas from the many Asian delis around the country.
This classic chutney, adapted from Simon Parkes and Udit Sarkhel’s cookbook The Calcutta Kitchen, is a delectable introduction to the cuisine of West Bengal. This is usually served at weddings as a rite of passage after a hot curry, along with poppadoms.
Ingredients:
1kg papayas
1 tbsp tamarind paste (or a walnut-sized piece of seedless tamarind)
2 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 medium sized mango
2 tbsp groundnut oil
1 tsp mustard powder
1 tsp mustard seeds
100g raisins
6 medium sized chillies, chopped
100g sugar
Salt
1 tbsp flour
Peel the papayas, de-seed them and cut them into small chunks. Soak the tamarind in about 350mls of water, then rub through a sieve to extract the thick pulp and add the liquid. Add some tamarind paste, if you wish, for extra tamarind-ness.
Blend the ginger and mango together to a paste. Heat the oil and add the mustard seeds and powder. When the seeds start to pop, add the raisins. When the raisins balloon, add the papaya and the sugar. Stir for a few minutes then add the tamarind pulp and liquid and salt to taste. Make sure there is enough water to cover. Simmer for about 8 to 10 minutes or until the papaya is just starting to break down.
Dissolve the flour in a little water. Add to the pot and stir continuously to avoid lumps. Just before removing from the heat, add the ginger and mango paste. Then cool, pour into sterilized jars and refrigerate. Best served at room temperature.
Ken Doherty is a chef and journalist. Visit his blog at assassinationcustard.blogspot.com
