According to Pliny the Elder, “Cattle that have eaten poisonous honey throw themselves to the ground, seeking to cool their bodies which are running with sweat.”
Apart from the bizarre imagery, the chances of poisoning anyone with honey, let alone cattle, seem remote. Maybe it’s an ancient human smear campaign against the phenomenon of bees and their complex and diligent work ethic. The hardworking summer bee swoops from flower to flower gorging on liquid nectar, resulting in a miraculous sticky and sweet ambrosia.
Syrups are a useful way of combining flavours that like to mingle with honey, including spices, orange blossom, rosewater and lemons. Nuts preserved in honey are a particular favourite of the south of France. Walnuts, which turn rancid fairly quickly, are best smothered in a honey syrup.
You can add honeyed walnuts to yogurt, muesli and ice-cream. Use as a filling for tarts or for a sweet crunch with pecorino cheese.
Ingredients:
350g clear honey
450g walnuts
1 lemon
1/2 cinnamon stick, medium sized
Water
Sterilised jars for preserving
Lightly toast the walnuts in a frying pan for a few minutes. Set aside and cool. Put 500ml of water in a pan with the honey, cinnamon stick, lemon juice and rind. Bring to the boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer to get a good syrupy consistency. Tip the walnuts into the syrup and mix. Immediately transfer everything to two 250g sterilised jars. Will keep for about six months in a cool, dark place.
Ken Doherty is a chef and journalist
