African fashion is on the rise!
African fashion is on the rise!
On her recent visit to Dublin for a fashion showcase, I nabbed an interview with Liza Bonsu, CEO of the fashion brand Yaa.Lia. The self-taught UK-based fashion designer is a proud African, inspired by both modern and classical styles that are truly reflected in her fabulous creations...
Hi Liza! Can you tell us a little about your background? Where are you from?
I was born and raised in Ghana, I went to school in Austria and am now living and working in England.
What is your educational background? And how do you feel it prepared you for a career in design?
I come from a very different background altogether! I graduated with a degree in airline and airport management three years ago and have been working in the field since then. However, I have always had the creative gene, and have been very passionate about fashion and style from a very young age.
To prepare myself for my design career, I attended seminars and short courses in fashion and business, and I volunteered for various fashion-related roles for more knowledge about the industry and for general experience. I’ve also read an extensive amount of books and taught myself quite a lot. I’m looking into taking a Master’s degree in fashion design in the coming months.
How did you get started in fashion design?
I designed a T-shirt for myself and a friend that raised some interest. Then one day I decided to practise on a sewing machine; a few hours later I’d sewn my first peplum skirt, and from then I decided to pursue a career in this field.
What is your style? And who is your fashion icon?
I like the preppy, laid-back, neat and clean-cut look. I admire the style of Alexa Chung, Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama and the classic Audrey Hepburn look.
What material do you use, and where do you source it?
I use a lot of African print fabric, mostly because it is so versatile – bright colours, of course – also because of the stories behind the prints and patterns. I also like the fact that they are never out of style or fashion. I brought some back from my recent trip to Ghana where most of the prints are produced.
You are a particularly Africa-conscious designer. How did this come to be?
Growing up in Ghana, African prints were worn by almost everyone to anywhere regardless of the time or day. You couldn’t miss it even if you really wanted to. But abroad you only see African prints worn on either Sundays or special occasions, designed the same as decades ago.
I want to create pieces that can be worn regardless of the time or day. I want to see people wearing African prints whether they were going to the shops or out for dinner. I want to create pieces that are also modern and contemporary and wearable – classy, elegant and simple – and that’s what Yaa.Lia is all about.
A typical design takes how many hours?
It’s never just hours in my case! From concept to design can take anything from days and months. There’s one design that took me a year to get right!
What does a typical outfit creation involve?
Anything from research to sourcing fabrics, illustrations and sketches, drawing patterns, creating samples – it’s a lot of work.
How did you come about your design techniques?
That would be telling!
Do you outsource any of your design work?
No, not at the moment. Most of [my design work is] God-given – other than that it’s all done by me.
You were a fashion design intern. Why is such internship important, in your opinion?
It’s important to help prepare the individual for their chosen role in the industry. Not everything can be taught in a classroom, and some tend to learn more with hands-on experience. You get to learn more about the tricks of the trade, and best of all, improve your skills and knowledge.
What has been the most difficult aspect of launching your own label?
When you’re running your own business by yourself, everything becomes difficult. I’ve learnt a lot along the way, and I’m not afraid to learn something new if I need to, or to ask for help whether professionally or from friends and family. Time management is also key and can make things a little easier at times, instead of trying to do everything at once. You will go crazy if you do.
What is the British fashion design industry like in your opinion?
It’s all mixed up which means there’s something for absolutely everyone with different tastes and budgets. Nobody gets left out. There’s a lot of quirkiness and personality involved.
What is most challenging about a fashion design career in the UK?
It is and can be very challenging, but I also believe there’s room for everyone. You have to be outstanding to get out there, and to be outstanding you need to overcome challenges. That’s what I keep telling myself. Remind yourself that the only competition is with yourself and the limitations in your mind.
What do people need to know about a fashion design career?
That it’s a lot harder than it seems! Be prepared to do a lot of unpaid work, with oh-so-many late nights and early morning starts.
What advice would you give a fashion newbie or student looking to become a designer?
Here’s my own strategy. I use the Three Ps: Passion, Patience and Productivity. You definitely need passion; it’s what keeps you going when it gets tough. Patience is key in this industry, as frustration will kick in when things are not going so well, but just because it doesn’t work out today doesn’t mean it won’t work tomorrow. I always say, frustration will be your enemy but when you have patience as a friend, you’re sorted.
And productivity: be consistent with whatever you’re doing, it’s only a matter of time till your goals are achieved. This advice may sound clichéd but it’s all true.
What skills are most important in a fashion design career?
I believe it’s talent and passion, as no money can buy these. You can pay to learn the rest!
What do you most enjoy about a fashion design career?
Seeing my ideas come to life, and also knowing people are happy to be part of my vision.
What do you wish you had known before entering the fashion industry?
That it takes over and literally becomes your life.
Where do you see the business in the long term?
I want to expand into men’s formal wear, accessories and children’s wear, and eventually franchises and concessions around the world.
What is your greatest design achievement?
So far it’s being invited to Ireland for the fashion event From Africa With Love, an exotic evening in Dublin.
Any closing thoughts?
African fashion is on the rise and I’m so glad to be part of it.
